Is carpet an emitting product?
New carpet is a very low emitter. As with most other indoor products, choosing a low-emitting product, ventilating, and cleaning are the keys to good air quality.
How long do new carpet emissions last?
New carpetӳ emission level will drop significantly within the first 24 hours of carpet installation, and with fresh air ventilation, the emission level will dissipate to an undetectable level within 48-72 hours.
What is the new carpet odor that sometimes is present after the carpet installation?
This possible odor usually comes from a by-product of the synthetic latex binder used to hold the fibers and backing together. It, like a new car odor, will dissipate within a few days, and it is not harmful.
Regarding indoor air quality, is there any difference between natural and synthetic fibers?
No, all types of carpet have very low emission levels, regardless of whether they are natural or synthetic fibers. Fibers typically do not produce detectable chemical emissions. Emissions typically originate from from the synthetic latex binder. However, fibers may absorb odors from the environment and slowly emit these odors. For example, In instances surrounding smoke damage, all fibers will absorb these odors and slowly release the chemicals associated with these odors.
If I am sensitive to natural latex, will carpet produce sensitivity (allergic) reactions?
No, carpet uses synthetic latex, which has no natural proteins that normally produce allergic reactions.
Will carpet removal eliminate my allergic symptoms?
Probably not. There may be a short term improvement, but allergic symptoms inevitably return. Many societies, which do not use carpet, have allergy rates much higher than the U.S. population and some attribute this increased allergy rate to the use of hard surface flooring. After carpet removal, you may begin to notice airborne dust levels (and settled dust on other furnishings) increase significantly, because carpet has the ability to absorb these dust and allergen particles.
If carpet removal does not reduce allergic symptoms, why has my allergist recommended that I remove my carpet?
Since an allergy vaccine has yet to be developed, allergists practice an avoidance theory of preventive medicine. This belief holds that if all allergens and places where allergen can be held are eliminated, patients will realize a benefit. Unfortunately, this practice has had very limited success. flawed thought process.
Can carpet removal in my home or child’s classroom increase the incidence of allergic episodes?
Possibly. Some school systems, who have followed the advice of physicians and consultants by removing carpet, have noted a significant increase in the incidence of reported allergy symptoms. Some of these school systems returned to the use of carpet following increased allergies, increased maintenance costs, and the inability to obtain a conducive learning environment with hard floors.
Did you know?
During the early stages of Indoor Air Quality assessment, carpet was thought to play a significant role in indoor air quality. This impact was initially thought to be negative, however as research continued and comparison’s to other flooring surfaces were performed, carpet was found to have many positive attributes that contributed to good indoor air quality. Is there such a thing as Carpet Allergy? An insightful look at carpet, carpet cleaning, and carpet allergy. Good science indicates carpet may be less of a source of allergen than previously thought.
Q. What are laminate floors and how are they made?
A. Laminate flooring is a versatile, durable, attractive flooring with the appearance of a hardwood floor. Although laminate flooring looks like wood flooring, there is actually no solid wood used in its construction. Laminate floors are made up of several materials bonded together under high pressure. Most laminate flooring consists of a moisture resistant layer under a layer of HDF (high density fiberboard). This is topped with a high resolution photographic image of natural wood flooring. It is then finished with an extremely hard, clear coating made from special resin-coated cellulose to protect the laminate flooring. Laminate flooring is perfect for anyone wanting a durable floor for a fraction of the price and installation time of a hardwood floor, but with the attractiveness of real hardwood. This construction also makes laminate flooring more environment-friendly as it uses less wood in its construction and makes more efficient use of the wood fiber that is used.
Q. What is the difference between laminate flooring and hardwood flooring?
A. Both laminate flooring and hardwood flooring can beautify a home. While hardwood is often thought to be a superior choice, there are several advantages to laminate flooring. Distinct differences between the two types of flooring often make laminate a more attractive alternative. Solid hardwood of any thickness (most is 3/8” to 3/4”) should be installed only above grade. Laminate flooring can be installed above or below grade, and over virtually any other flooring surface. Some hardwood flooring is engineered, meaning that instead of solid hardwood, it is made of several wood layers with a hardwood veneer. Laminate flooring, usually 7mm to 8mm (5/16” to 3/8”), is also made of several layers. These are laminated together which makes for stability and strength. The top surface of laminate flooring is a photograph of hardwood. High quality photographs faithfully reproduce the grain and color of natural hardwood, and the surfaces on quality laminate flooring closely resemble real wood. Although many people insist on hardwood flooring, laminates are a long-lasting, durable, affordable option that are quickly becoming one of the most popular types of flooring.
Q. How do laminate floor panels lock together?
A. There are many types of edge joining systems used to connect laminate flooring panels together. Some laminate flooring connections snap together by hand while others require a light tap with a mallet and a tapping block. Still others use a combination of a “snap” click edge and a “bang” or “tap” click at the end of the panels. While most of the various systems work well to secure your laminate floor, it is important to read your laminate flooring installation instructions carefully. Familiarize yourself with how your flooring locks together before starting your installation.
Q. Where can I install laminate wood flooring?
A. Laminate flooring is an extremely versatile flooring product. It can be installed in virtually any room of your home, above or below ground, over wood or concrete. There are several locations that are not recommended for laminate flooring. Because laminate flooring is a wood flooring product it is not recommended that laminates be installed in wet locations such as bathrooms, washrooms, saunas, enclosed porches or verandas, or anywhere that may require wet-mopping. Extended exposure to moisture of this type may cause the core of your laminate flooring to warp or swell. In some instances, with special installation procedures, it is possible to install laminate floors in bathrooms where water will not stand on the floor for any length of time. For bathroom installations, it is recommended you apply a light bead of glue to the tongue on the planks to be used in the areas subject to spills. Also, ensure that all spills are mopped up and dried promptly.
Q. What are the advantages of laminate flooring over those of solid hardwood flooring ?
A. One obvious advantage is that of price; laminate flooring is typically half the cost of traditional hardwood flooring. Sometimes the savings are even greater, depending on the types of flooring in question. Additionally, laminate flooring is designed to be easy to install and is generally a good choice for most do-it-yourselfers, where solid hardwood requires a specific level of expertise. Installing laminate doesn’t involve nails, and more recently has done away with glue as well in many cases. Laminate flooring can therefore be installed fairly quickly and inexpensively. Laminate flooring is generally designed to be scratch-resistant and fade resistant, two areas where solid hardwood flooring is known to be more vulnerable.
Q. What do I need to know before I start installing my laminate floor?
A. There are several things to consider before you begin to install a laminate floor. Careful preparation before beginning will make installing your laminate floor a quick and easy process.
- Ensure that your subfloor is flat, dry, and smooth.
- Always use underlayment under your laminate floor for soundproofing.
- Laminate flooring and underlayment/vapor barrier can be installed over concrete, wood flooring, vinyl tile, linoleum, tile, or virtually any other hard, flat surface.
- Take extra care when installing laminate flooring over radiant heating. Ensure that you read both the laminate flooring and radiant heat system instructions carefully before beginning.
- Read your laminate flooring manufacturer’s installation instructions carefully.
- Allow you laminate flooring to acclimatize to the room where it will be installed for as long as possible (min. 48 hours)
- Inspect each laminate flooring panel carefully for defects or damage before installing it.
Q. What do I have to do before installation?
A. Laminate flooring boards must be acclimatized for 48 hours in the room where they will be installed. Installation should take place at room temperature of at least 65°F (15°C). A floor surface temperature of 59°F and an overall room temperature of 64°F must be ensured before, during and three days after the installation.
Q. Do I have to keep staggering the planks in my laminate flooring installation?
A. The first row should be started with a full plank, the second row with a 2/3 plank and the third row with a 1/3 plank. The distance between joints from one row to the next for the remainder of the installation must be 8″ or greater
Q. How do I determine the direction in which to install my laminate flooring?
A. To decide where to begin the layout of your floor, consider incoming light. It is usually best to install laminate flooring with the planks running parallel to light coming in windows or glass doors. For any installation, the starting wall should be as long and straight as possible.
Q. Will there be any cutting waste?
A. In an average installation, approximately 7% to 10% of the total area to be covered will be wasted for several reasons, typically cuts, planks damaged during installation, or errors.
Q. What is the reason for the necessary 10mm gap left around the perimeter of the interior and around other obstacles within it?
A.Because laminate flooring is derived from wood, it is subject to expansion caused by room temperatures and humidity levels. An expansion gap is a necessary part of any successful installation because it allows space for the expansion of the floor as it responds to these external influences of temperature and humidity. When it is exposed to warmer temperatures, or to increased humidity, laminate flooring planks expand outward. Leaving out the essential element of an outside gap can cause the buckling of the individual laminate flooring planks as the planks push outward against walls or other obstacles.
Q. I didn’t get my first row straight. Can I continue?
A. Do not continue. Getting the first row absolutely straight is the foundation – perhaps the most critical part- to a successful installation. If your first rows are not properly aligned, or the joints are not tightly sealed, the entire installation will be compromised. (The error will magnify as you continue installing.) Along both sides and ends, all planks must be parallel to each other or there will be wedge-shaped gaps between planks. If residue is caught in the grooves, poor alignment can also result. Remember to make sure all grooves are clean before installation.
Q. How do I choose the right moldings?
A. Here is a brief guide to moldings and their best uses for a laminate flooring project:
Base shoe molding
Used to cover the expansion space left at walls and other vertical surface
Used at exterior doorways to finish the space where the laminate flooring ends
Used to join laminate flooring to other flooring materials of varying height.
For use in doorways or thresholds to join two areas of floor on the same height level
Stair Nose molding
For use in finishing the exposed outer edges of stain and landings
Quarter round molding
Used in the same way as a base shoe molding, behind cabinets where a low profile molding is better suited to support an object flush against the wall.
Q. How should I install moldings?
A. You can glue or nail moldings to the wall only, never to the floor.
Q. What is a floating floor?
A. A floating floor is a floor built with all its parts attached to each other but with none of these component parts fixed to the supporting floor. Virtually all laminate floors install as floating floors.
Q. What is HDF and what is it made of?
A. High density fiberboard, HDF, is basically a high-density, moisture-resistant fiber panel. It is made of wood residues (sawdust, shavings and wood chips) from wood processing factories. This ligneous material is ground into a pulp to which a melamine-urea-formaldehyde resin is added. This pulp is then dried and pressed into panels.
Q. How is the paper applied to the HDF core?
A. The melamine impregnated paper is thermo-fused to the core, topped with an aluminum-oxide wear layer.
Q. Why is a moisture barrier used on concrete?
A. Concrete floors below ground are capable of storing a vast amount of water. It is crucial to avoid all direct contact between the laminate flooring and the concrete floor because the soil beneath the concrete can transmit humidity into the floor. Installing a moisture barrier over all concrete surfaces is mandatory for a successful installation and for the ongoing health of a laminate floor.
Q. How can I get the shine of my floor to increase?
A. The shine can not be modified as it is a manufactured characteristic. Therefore, you must never wax or polish a laminate floor.
Q. How does laminate flooring from CarpetSourceUSA compare to other laminate flooring products?
A. All Laminate floors sold by CarpetSourceUSA are high quality products, manufactured with residual wood fiber. Their self-locking tongue-and-groove systems have exceptional joint integrity and are designed for easy, glue-free installation. All edges are protected against ingress of moisture by an environment-friendly hydrophobic agent. All laminate floors from CarpetSourceUSA meet stringent standards for resistance to moisture, wear, fading, and staining. And after installation, the floor can be walked on immediately.
Q. Can laminate flooring be installed on steps?
A. Yes, laminate flooring can be installed on steps but with this exceptional installation, the planks should be glued down with regular wood glue. The moldings and transitions need to be nailed down.
Q. Can laminate flooring be installed in my screened in porch or patio?
A. No, laminate flooring must be installed in a climate-controlled area.
Q. Can we install laminate over carpet?
A. No, all carpet and padding should be removed completely prior to installation.
Q. How often do the wood grain patterns repeat on your flooring?
A. The patterns repeat is different on every product, sometimes every ten and sometimes every twenty planks.
Q. How do I clean my laminate flooring?
A. Laminate flooring is a beautiful, low maintenance, long-lasting flooring. There are several simple steps that you can take to keep your laminate flooring clean and to ensure that you get many years of service from it. Simply dust mop or vacuum with a soft brush or wood floor accessory to keep your laminate floor clean from dust, dirt or grit.
- A damp cloth or mop can be used without damage to the laminate flooring panels, but do not use excessive water. Dry the floor thoroughly with a clean, soft cloth.
- Blot up spills or water from wet feet or footwear immediately with a clean, dry cloth, sponge, or paper towel. Do not allow excess liquid to remain on the surface of your laminate floor.
- Do not use soap-based detergents, abrasive cleaners, or combined “clean and shine” products on your laminate floor.
- Do not use steel wool or other scouring pads that may scratch laminate panels.
- Do not wax or polish your laminate flooring.
- Do not steam clean or use chemicals that may damage the laminate flooring surface.
Q. How do I care for and maintain my laminate floors?
A. While laminate floors are highly resistant to stains and abrasions, they are not indestructible. In order to maximize the durability and beauty of your laminate flooring, we recommend the following practices as part of your floor’s normal care and maintenance.
- Place a doormat outside the exterior entrances to collect excess moisture, sand, grit and other potentially damaging substances from being tracked onto your laminate floor.
- Use only colorfast and non-scratch carpeting or pads on your laminate surface.
- Avoid sharp or pointed objects with concentrated weight such as high heels on your laminate flooring.
- Use protective felt pads under furniture legs or wide castors under appliance levelers.
- Do not slide furniture or appliances across your laminate floor. If using a wheeled dolly to move furniture or appliances, place a clean sheet of smooth plywood or other protective layer over your laminate surface.
- Rearrange furniture occasionally for increased indentation resistance
- Do not treat or seal your laminate floor panels after they are installed.
- Never sand, lacquer, or refinish your laminate flooring surfaces.
Q. How do I repair minor scratches?
A. Minor scratches or nicks can be repaired with laminate floor repair wax stick. This can be purchased from us or any hardware store.
Q. What is the difference between a brown core and a green core in laminate flooring?
A. The cores are the same. The green product is a result of a coloring agent added to the adhesive in the manufacturing of the High Density Fiberboard (HDF) core in response to general market preference.
Q. How do I replace one plank of my flooring due to damage?
A. If the plank that needs replacing is close to the edge of the room, simply disassemble the floor to the position of the plank to be replaced and then reinstall the plank(s). There is a more complicated procedure if you need to replace a single hard-to-get-to plank. Call your CarpetSourceUSA product specialist who will be pleased to email or fax you the specific instructions.
Can I install a solid wood floor over a concrete slab?
It is not recommended to install solid wood flooring over a concrete slab. Although this is the general rule, there have been successful installations of solid wood flooring installed over dry, concrete slabs. This entails several additional steps. A plastic barrier is set over the slab and taped at all seams. Then some sort of moisture-resistant wood subfloor (marine plywood) is built on top of the plastic film. Then the flooring is nailed to the wood subfloor. If you decide to take the chance be sure to consult with the manufacturer as to their recommendations. Be aware, you may be voiding your warranty.
There is a new synthetic underlayment product on the market (called Sika AcouBond) that may allow for installing solid wood flooring over a dry slab. Check with the manufacturer of the wood floor to see if they will warranty this type of installation and what their recommended installation procedures are for this type of installation.
What wood floor can I install over a concrete slab?
With the improvements in hardwood floors most engineered and longstrip engineered plank floors can be used over a concrete slab. Manufacturers do not recommend using solid wood floors over a slab. Engineered planks and strip wood floors can be glued directly to a clean, dry, well-cured concrete slab. Some engineered wood floors can be glued at the tongue and grooves and then allowed to be floated over a special padding that is laid over the concrete slab. Longstrip engineered planks can be floated over the slab with a padding underneath. There are some new “hybrid” engineered floors that can be floated over a concrete slab and come with a click (glueless) tongue and groove locking system.
Note: New concrete slabs need to be fully cured for a least 60 days. All wood planks should be acclimated for 24-48 hours prior to installation. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s recommended installation procedures.
Can we install a hardwood floor over an existing vinyl floor?
Yes and no. Is the vinyl flooring is tightly secured to the subfloor? Does the vinyl flooring have a thick cushion attached? If the vinyl floor is thin and well secured to the subfloor you may be able to float a wood floor over it. In some situations you may be able nail/staple a wood floor over it also. If the wood subfloor is sound you may be able to nail a solid wood floor over the top. Be sure to get the manufacturer’s installation procedures for going over an existing vinyl floor and be sure to check if this type installation is warranted by the manufacturer.
What to I do to remove scratches in my wood floor?
This really depends on the type of wood floor you have, the finish you have and how deep the scratches are in the top layer. For small minor scratches in a urethane finish you should be able to order a touch-up kit from the store you purchased the flooring from. Be sure to use the manufacturer’s recommended finish products and test first by applying a small amount in an out of the way area. For deep scratches you will probably have to have a professional do a screen and recoat. This is where they use special sanding screens to lightly abrade the floor’s finish to help the new urethane bond better to the existing finish. With some wood floors you may be able to just replace the damaged boards. It is best to leave the sand and recoat, or board replacement to a professional flooring installer, or refinisher.
Can I install a hardwood floor if I have pets?
Although many homeowners have pets, hardwood flooring is not designed for the abuse a dog or cat can cause on a floor. Urine may permanently discolor the finish of the wood floor and large dogs’ claws will probably leave scratches in the finish. The type of wood floor you buy, the color and the finish will also be factor in how much punishment the floor’s finish can withstand before showing scratches and excessive wear.
Can an engineered wood floor be refinished?
Some of the better quality engineered wood floors have a 1/8″ thick finish layer and can be sanded and refinished 1 or maybe 2 times. The sanding and refinishing of an engineered wood floor is best done by an experienced hardwood flooring refinisher. If you have heat vents in your floor you can remove a heat cover to get a side view of your wood floor. This will help you check to see how thick you finish layer is. Always consult with the manufacturer to see if the recommend sanding and refinishing of the engineered wood floors.
Can I use throw rugs on my hardwood floor?
Before using any throw rugs on your wood floor you should know the type of finish you have on the floor. All rugs should be non-staining, meaning the colored dyes will not bleed. Generally in the presence of moisture, some dyes used in rugs may bleed through onto your floor and discolor the wood floors surface. Also, be sure the rug does not have a rough backing material that may scratch the surface of the floor. Clean dirt and debris from under the rug regularly. To prevent possible shading of the wood underneath the rug, move the rug occasionally.
How do we stop a wood floor from gapping?
Gapping in solid wood floors cannot be stopped completely. Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Using a humidifier during the heating months may help reduce the amount of gapping in solid wood floors. Also, some wood species may gap expand and contract less than others. Engineered wood floors are much more dimensionally stable than solid wood floors and will show little or no gaps between planks.
What should I use under furniture legs?
Most flooring stores carry the recommended felt pads for using under chair legs and other furniture. The felt pads come in various sizes. Some pads just stick on the bottom of the legs and others need to be nailed on. Never hit the pads directly with a hammer. Follow the directions provided with the pads. Check and clean the pads often to prevent debris, dirt and small particles from being trapped in the pad, which may cause scratches in the wood floor’s finish.
Where to Go From Here
For additional free help and advice to help you find the best flooring – whether carpets, hardwood floors, tiles or laminates – at the best price, call 303-940-0777 to book an appointment with Denver Carpet Brokers.